Bike generating power.

I’ve often wondered how much power is generated by the act of cycling, and whether we could tap that power to do things like run small appliances, charge a battery, or contribute to the “grid”. There have been dynamo lit bikes for years, where the front wheel drives a small engine, generating power for a light or light battery.

Consider the way many people like to watch tv while they ride their bike (exercise bike or road bike on rollers. etc). In some cases, there are already wheels being driven by the pedaling that are generating electricity (to charge a battery or power the system). Wouldn’t it be good (and perhaps motivating) if the act of pedaling powered the tv?

Anyway, I found an interesting video

, through a most interesting cycling site -

momentum magazine

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It takes 78 cyclists going full out to generate the electric power to run the shower and keep the water hot. That’s way more than I thought.

It’s an interesting experiment. Current battery technology has advanced a great deal, and continues to advance, similar to the way (and partly due to) computer chips have advanced. I’d like to see things such as exercise bikes (and other exercise equipment) that conserved the human energy used to operate it, perhaps into batteries. Then we can aim for a sort of net zero life, not only in terms of energy use, but in terms of general fitness and weight management.

Want to lay on the couch and watch tv? You’re going to have to pay for it directly, by generating the power needed to operate that tv. Want a chocolate sundae? You’re going to have to “earn it” by burning off those 500 calories (it’s easy to measure and keep track of calories burned with a monitor).

Even for those things you may never generate enough power for (like running an oven for 8 hours), I think the act of contributing directly to your own personal energy generation and consumption helps keep the real big picture in mind. We all need to be aware of the energy we’re using and generating, and we should try to get to net zero, or even become net generators if we can.

We’ll save a lot of money, and we’ll get fit, nd we won’t need to do anything different than we’re doing now. The big difference is putting a generator on our bike. I’d bet soon we’ll be working out ways to do that. The newer generation batteries, coupled with more efficient electronics, have brought a lot of things within reach previously considered impossible or unfeasible.

EBC lighting workshop

If you’re the tinkering type, or if you just want some good lights for an affordable price, check out the Edmonton Bike Commuters lighting workshop. You can find out about it online http://www.bikeology.ca/2010/02/05/bicycle-lights-workshop-by-edmonton-bicycle-commuters/ .

I believe they tackle all kinds of lighting and visibility solutions, including reflective garb and tapes, so it should be good. It’ll be fun and educational as well. Especially if you’re the tinkering DIY type.

Personally, I’m willing to pay for my lighting. It’s important to me. There’s something reassuring about knowing the company that made your lights specialize in high depth mission critical underwater lighting.

I might go to the clinic to see if we can figure out a way to jury rig my CatEye 1100 tail light. It’s, by far, the best and brightest tail light commercially available, but I broke a part in a small wipeout. I’ll order the part from Western Cycle for very cheap, but will likely need to wait awhile until they receive their 2010 CatEye shipment. I’d like to run it in the meantime, but the light is so bright, setting it up at the best angle is important. You want drivers to notice you, but you don’t want to blind them. This light can.

So, to wrap up the lighting tips for now, here’s what I do:

Two lights up front
Stella 200 on the handlebars aimed at the ground in front of me Stella 150 on my helmet aimed where I look

Three lights in back
One on the bike in the centre, flashing red (CatEye 1100 is my first choice – aimed downward) Two on each side of the back of my pack, on solid red

The front lights run on separate rechargeable batteries. I’ve got the helmet light battery on on the back of my helmet, and I tape the other to my Spot frame until I have time to come up with a more elegant solution. I charge them every other day in winter. (TIP: it may seem obvious, but – if you’re running a light or camera with a separate battery pack connected by a cable, don’t attach one to yourself and the other to your bike)

Probably at least half of what you pay for a good light is for the battery. Battery technology is advancing rapidly. My 200 goes about 3 hours at full, even during winter, and charges fully in less than an hour most times. The 150? It lasts a little longer (maybe 4 hours on full), but takes more like 5 hours to charge. I do it overnight, or during the day at work.

The others use AAA batteries, and I use rechargeables. These hold a charge well, but definitely less during cold weather. There are different quality levels for chargers here too, and you can buy more expensive ones that charge rapidly. I keep a slower charger at home, and a faster one at work.

Only use Li-On batteries.

Ride at night – get a light! I recommend good ones if you’re going to be riding a lot in the dark, but even if you’re not planning on ever riding at night, pick up a couple small blinkies (one red, and one white) in case you’re caught late somewhere, or it’s an overcast day. $30 is cheap for safety and peace of mind.

As with anything else bike related, if they can steal it, they will. Make sure any lights not securely fastened clip off easily instead, and take them off the bike if it’s parked outside. The new LED lights are very small, small enough to carry in your pocket, and plenty bright.

Reflectors

The was a post on the site I mentioned previously flat out stating “reflectors don’t work”. It’s absurd, of course, but I sort of understand. You need lights too.

Reflectors are as effective as a lights for visibility. As with lights, it’s good to think about reflectors both on your body/equipment, and on your bike.

Reflectors (reflective tape, fabrics, etc) are really getting sophisticated these days. Just as reflectors don’t replace the need for a light, there’s a good argument for the reverse as well. They work differently, but work together effectively.

The Super Bowl’s on now. I’ll finish the post later.

OK, I’m back. I love the WHO, but …

The best way to think about reflectors, is how you see them work on others. I really appreciate the reflective clothing on joggers and walkers on the path. My lights can pick them up quite well back.

I’ve noticed a lot of good reflectors on bikes too, sometimes in good places I hadn’t though about. The point being, I noticed them.

I can divide them into two catefories – moving, and stationary.

Stationary ones work really well, especially from the side, where front and back lights might not be noticeable. I bought reflective tape for my TriCross. It’s really such a beautiful bike, and I sometimes regret the tape aesthetically.

But there’s no question it’s effective, as I noticed from well back when returning to my bike on night. I haven’t done it on the Spot, but I probably will. The Shwalbe Marathon Winter’s (and the summer ones) have a reflective stripe around the outside that really picks up at night. Great feature. All commuter tires should require this.

Motionary ones are those that move (duh). Specifically, I’d refer to reflectors on pedals, and reflective treatments on the back of a cyclists legs/shoes as good examples. There’s something about a moving light that attracts attention.

Very effective. They have an effect similar to blinking lights. The eye seems drawn to them, and it gets attention without being a distraction. I have a reflective ankly strap I always wear. Very good idea. Putting them on your wrists isn’t a bad idea either, especially for hand signalling.

Wearing bright clothing, and wearing reflective clothing, are two different issues. I’d recommend going with both. Remember – the reflective back of your bright jacket or jersey is effectively covered if you wear a pack. Make sure to get a reflective pack with plenty of clips for lights.

Panniers are a great opportunity to be visible. Use reflective tape on your side bags if they don’t already have a reflective surface. Tape a big “X”.

So there’s a lot to consider, and a lot you can do to help keep yourself, or your kids, safe when riding.

Bike Lights Rear

Where to put your rear light depends a lot on your bike, and on anything attached to your bike (seat bag, panniers/side bags).

I always use a seat bag, which is a small bag that attaches to you seat. I use it for my spare tube, tire change kit, rag, and multi-tool.

Every good seat bag has a reflective strap on the back of the bag that you can clip a light to.

The Spot bike I ride during winter (when it’s always dark) does not have a rack or panniers, so the only light I have on my bike is on my seat bag.

My TriCross has panniers/side bags with reflective prints, but, unfortunately, doesn’t have straps for lights. The reflectors work nearly as well as a light though (!!!).

So the only rear light on either bike is on the seat bag.

Most of the cyclists I see commuting have back packs. I sincerely wish more packs had reflective backs (even for pedestrians – especially children). Mine has two reflective strips I know help.

But what I really like about my MEC pack is the multiple straps for lights. We need to make sure we have lights up high where drivers (and other cyclists) can see them. I run two MEC lights on each side of the rear of my pack. They can be run as blinkies, but I usually run them solid, with the seat bag one as a blinkie.

So I run three (rechargeable battery) lights on the back – all MEC. I think they’re about $12 ea. The rechargeable batteries cost more.

I did have a CatEye 1100 that is, without even being close, the best rear light I’ve come across. It’s unbelievably bright, and even does the job in the daytime. Unfortunately I broke it in a little wipe out. I broke a part, and I need to order it from Western Cycle. When I get it, it’s going on the seat bag.

Even more than in the front, it’s good to have a backup rear light for when the batteries die, you lose one, one gets stolen, etc.

Make sure it’s visible to drivers. After all, that’s the point. I’ve seen more than a few comfort bikes with rear light/reflector on the seat post. The bike design puts the seat post very low, so the light gets blocked by the rear fender or rack.

Maybe the fender or rack was an aftermarket attachment (and a good one), but the light/reflector never gets moved. Give it some thought and find good places on your bike and body where drivers will see it.

Keeping lights on your pack keeps them from being stolen, and as an added bonus,, are great when walking at night, whether on a path, or crossing the street. Good idea all around – cyclist, or pedestrian.

Bike Lights Front

Being able to see only concerns the front lights. I use two: the Stella 200 on the handlebars, and a Stella 150 on my helmet. I aim my 200 at the ground just in front of me, so I can see the obstacles, snow, or ice on the road, and watch for hazards. The one on my helmet isn’t as bright, and of course it aims wherever I’m looking. You really need both, in these conditions, in the dark.

I usually run the helmet light at one setting lower than maximum, both for extended battery life, and to avoid blinding people coming in my direction. The mountain bike racers who race at night use even stronger lights in their night racing, but they’re all going in the same direction, and they’re all on bikes. These Stella lights are absolutely as strong as I’d want for a commute that includes roads, sidewalks, and unlit paths, and lots of snow and ice.

The Stella 200 is a perfect light. Unlike the 150 (which is warmer), it’s perfectly white. I use it on my bars, and I aim the bright spot about 1.5 metres in front of me. It washes out pretty well, allowing me to see the road or path, but not blind people coming toward me.

I use the 200 on full on the paths or dicey roads/walks. If I’m on the road, or especially when I’m entering/intersecting a road, I often switch from full to flashing mode. Usually the street-lighting is good, and it’s more about being seen, and being noticed, by drivers. The button can be hard to use, but I’d rather it didn’t by accident anyway. Three pushes, and I’m on blink setting. One more, and I’m back to full.

The helmet light helps me see where I’m headed. It has a pretty good beam, but nowhere near the 200. It’s noticeably more yellow. It’s a pretty good wash on an unlit path, and I tend to dip my head to avoid blinding oncoming pedestrians. All of the street signs, and reflective signs and clothing, light right up at night. It’s great for passing joggers on the paths.

I did ok with just the 200, but having the second light has allowed me to avoid blinding people (as often), and helps me see on the paths.

An important consideration regarding having multiple lights front and back, is that batteries can die quickly, and without warning. And I’ve broken lights, and had them malfunction. It’s nice not to worry about not having a backup light.

I even keep a couple little $13 led lights from MEC in my backpack. At very least, they blink brightly, and they are very tiny. I’ve thought about running one of these as a “blinkie” on the front. They attach/detach easily, and they are noticeable to drivers. And they’re cheap.

In fact, if you’re truly broke, and can only afford one light, this is the one. I’d even recommend one to strollers and joggers. If you have a dog, put a red one on their collar, and run it at night.

Bike Lights

I’ve been following a thread at http://commutebybike.com/2010/02/03/qa-bike-lights/ regarding lights when riding at night. There is a lot of advice, and much of it is poor.

You don’t need to light up like a Christmas tree, but it doesn’t hurt, especially around Christmas. And reflective tape/surfaces/reflectors work well. I’ve seen some great examples on the road, and have a few real world tips. Cycling to work is perfectly safe and a lot of fun if you pay attention to a few things, and lighting is important at night. Don’t cheap out on your lights. Spend at least $50 (mine are more like $350).

Get at least 2 lights for the front, and three for the rear. You want, at minimum, one solid white light and one blinking on the front. In back you want to make sure you have light both higher (on your body or helmet), and lower (on your bike).

note: NEVER PUT A WHITE LIGHT ON YOUR BACK OR A RED LIGHT ON THE FRONT! – people may think you are moving away when you’re coming toward them

The newer LED lights are the only way to go imho (notwithstanding dynamo purists). They are bright. Sometimes, too bright. The high powered 200+ lumens lights now available are too bright for most commutes, and many are made for racing, when there may be no-one coming toward you. We need to be considerate of others, but it’s hard to tell how bright they may be to onlookers. I know mine are sometimes too bright, and would never use the 200 on my helmet.

There are two main considerations at night: being able to see, and making sure you can be seen.

Beer bike

There’s all kinds of bikes out there, from expensive bikes at the peak of human powered fine tuned racing machine efficiency, to lazyboy bikes, to bikes that attach to a shopping cart, to this one. The beer bike. or, more truthfully, the “bar bike”. “Bike bar”? “Bicycle bar”? I think it may be from Germany. Just a guess.

To make it even better, or perhaps worse, all depending, the bar in question is a Karaoke Bar. If any cyclists should be wearing helmets, it’s this bunch. There’s a real argument for helmets at all times while cycling. That’s an aspect of cycling where we’ve got one up on, say, Amsterdam. Helmets. Even more when you’re drunk. Or singing. Maybe this bunch are afraid it might make them look silly, or something.

I understand why lots of people like Karaoke. Some people are actually good at it. I’ve been known to have a good time getting drunk and singing songs in bars and at parties. Generally, I need a pretty good other reason to stick around a Karaoke Bar, but that’s me.

I can picture the fun side, but having run a really fun bar, I can vouch for the not so fun side on occasion. I’m not sure bringing the bar out onto the streets, like this, a mobile, open bar, is such a good idea.

.Beer Bike

Pardon the slow video.

Snow Clearing

Today was my first day riding to work after a bit of a break due to holidays, cold weather, and a wicked cold.

I’m very pleased to report the roads were very good, and the bike paths through the river valley and Mill Creek Ravine were excellent. Even my #1 complaint – the path on Gateway between 72nd and 69th had been cleared (though it wasn’t great).

So, I take back some of my previous comments regarding the job the City of Edmonton has been doing on the roads. I still hope they manage to get to the streets around my place though.

Snow Clearing, etc

The City of Edmonton seems to have decided not to clear anything but the major roads. And, frankly, if we consider the huge piles of snow left on the sides of even those roads (windrows that occasionally even block the sidewalk), we haven’t been doing a great job of the main roads either. I’ve never seen so little attention paid to clearing the roads here.

Of course it makes cycling challenging, and sometimes impossible on the roads. Don’t get on me for takig the sidewalks. The piles of snow make staying to the right impossible. Many motorists are unaware the lane belongs to the cyclist, and the cyclist is supposed to allow other vehicles to pass in the same lane at their discretion. Some motorists don’t think cyclists belong there in the first place, as if spending money on a car gave them exclusive access to taxpayer funded roads that I pay for too, far in excess of how much I use them.

In Oliver district, where I live, the roads are so bad that crossing the street ON FOOT is a struggle. I find it ironic that each year we fine people and businesses for not clearing their sidewalks, but we can’t clear the streets. Doubly ironic, is that we used to do a much better job, and paid much less. Paying much more, for much less? How did we get to this?

I understand that we may have some severe budget constraints. But when we are funding a bunch of very expensive events/facilities of questionable real impact (world’s fair bid, Indy race, etc) but won’t clear the snow from the roads (or fund the bike paths), I can’t help but feel we’ve got our priorities wrong. I think we’re losing our way. And that could prove very bad for some very capable people, come election time. I hope somebody gives this another look. Maybe our new city manager?

Spot

I gotta say, the Spot Longboard is performing beautifully these winter days. I’m still getting used to the geometry, and the disc brakes, but it’s coming. No problems with the belt. Every once in awhile a chunk of snow (or something) goes through the belt/sprocket and there’s a disturbing clunk sound, but it keeps on working.

The Stella 200L light is, literally, a lifesaver. What a great light! It’s such a pleasant surprise to buy a product that delivers MORE than promised. I got a Stella 150L for my helmet on eBay for half price. It’s working good too, and it’s not burning out the retinas of approaching people.

I took a few days off riding when it got real cold, but I’m glad to be back in the saddle again. I’m going to get one of the MEC balaclavas, because mine covers the mouth. My concern with these things is being able to breathe through my mouth, and the MEC one has a hole. I can’t get enough air in breathing through my nose. I doubt anyone can when riding.

Tried making it up Lungbuster, but there was no way. I think the studded tires dig into the snow. I walk up most of the way. It’s still easier than taking the stairs, which I tried a few times. I’ll tell ya, they seem to go on forever. That’s a good workout.

The city’s done a great job on the paths, with the exception of the Gateway North path from 72-69 ave. It wasn’t done last year either. It’s pretty much unrideable. Same as last year. I made it a few times, but an inch or two to either side, and you get stuck in two feet of snow, and go for a tumble. Three blocks can take 15 hard minutes. It’s like doing one legged squats for 15 mins. Lots of swearing involved. I hope they get this one cleared too.